Pet Bird Illnesses

The Pet Ownership & Demographics Sourcebook claims that birds are the third most popular pet in the United States behind dogs and cats. And with almost 4.5 million bird-owning households in the country, bird owners are more common than many people realize. Like other pets, birds do get sick and owners are responsible for being aware of how his or her bird is acting, and whether or not their birds show any symptoms of common bird illnesses.

Signs of Sickness
 

Birds exhibit tell-tale signs of sickness so owners can take the appropriate action in a timely manner. Early detection in illnesses could mean the difference between life and death so make sure to be on the lookout for any of the following:

•     Open-mouthed breathing: The most common and most serious bird illnesses are respiratory-related, so if your animal is breathing with his or her mouth open you should be concerned

•     Dirty Feathers: If feathers are rumpled or dirty, especially around the face, your pet could be sick

•     Weight Loss: Weight loss can significantly reduce a bird's strength and inhibit proper organ function

•     Tail Bobbing: Prolonged bobbing of the tail could be a sign of a respiratory problem. If a bird is having trouble breathing the tail muscles must work harder.

•     Changes in Vocalization: Your bird will be less talkative if he or she doesn't feel well so monitor your pet's habits so you can notice any change in pattern.

Symptoms such as these could indicate potentially serious illnesses. Among the most common bird-related illnesses are plumage diseases, bacterial infections such as psittacosis and candida, and parasitic mite infections.

You should always contact your local veterinarian if your pet is experiencing any of these symptoms so they can get the necessary care and treatment.

Contact Us

If you have any questions regarding your pet bird's health contact your Austin veterinarian clinic [http://www.austinveterinarianclinics.com/] and speak with a professional.
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Effective Bird Feather Filtration - 6 Features Your Cleaner Needs To Work

Having pet birds in your home add lots of fun to life. They can also add dust from feathers, wings, and dander. Add this to the normal indoor pollutants such as dust, dust mites, mold and mildew spores, and seasonal pollen and you've got air that is thick with particles.

Your pet's health will depend heavily on the quality of air you provide for it. So it is important to use filtration that can take out these particles as well as gaseous pollutants. Here are 6 important features that filtration for your bird should include.

HEPA Filter---High efficiency particle arresting filters are designed as such because they are able to remove airborne particles as small as.3 microns in size with a micron being defined as one millionth of a meter. That size particle is invisible to the human eye.

Because it can eliminate 99,997 out of every 10,000 of these invisible particles dust from feathers and wings and the invisible dander can be taken out of the air. And because the more normal indoor pollutants are bigger that sub-micron size they can be eliminated as well.

Pre-Filters---Even though the HEPA can remove a large range of particle sizes, having it do all the work would mean you would need to spend money frequently on replacement filters---maybe every 6 months to a year depending on what's in your air.

By having several pre-filters (a large and medium size) you can save the more expensive filter from filling needlessly with particles that can just as easily be removed by the larger and less expensive filters. These cheaper filters save you money and time and are one of the best ways to determine how much maintenance your cleaner will need.

Carbon Cloth---Gaseous pollutants can really affect birds. Having a filter that can remove gases, odors, and airborne chemicals is a huge advantage. Carbon cloth gives dual protection. Because it is made of carbon it can remove gaseous irritants. But because it is woven like a cloth it eliminates additional particles as well.

Stand-Alone-Unit---A system that is not connected with heating and cooling systems gives you the most flexibility with filtration. It will run during the in-between-seasons when heating and cooling are not necessary. And since it will clean the air that is closest to it first, being able to move it into the bird room is a huge advantage.

24-Hour Cleaning---This is probably one of the most important features to have. Check to make sure your unit contains a split capacitor motor. This type of motor is designed to run continuously with high revolutions per minute. That means it doesn't need to take a break after a certain number of hour of operation.

The key to keeping air quality high is never allowing to become polluted, and the best way to do that is to filter the air continually without having to turn it on and off. Being able to allow it to run keeps you from having to remember to turn it on and off which can get tedious after a while.

Natural By-Products---The whole purpose of filtration is to keep your bird's air passages (and yours too) clear. Because avian airways are so small, they can be easily clogged by excessive numbers of airborne particulates in the air. Once their airways are clogged, it is often the start of disease and infection that cannot be reversed.

The only by-product of filtration should be fresh, clean air. Stay away from units that produce any amount of ozone or ionized particles. Both of these filtration technologies remain controversial in terms of how they affect birds and humans and how effective they are.

Why take the chance? Everyone agrees that fresh air is the best air to offer your bird and their owners. 250 cubic of fresh air entering the room every 60 seconds can only help you and your pet live the highest quality of life possible.

Provide healthy air for your bird all day every day with the Bird Dust Air Purifier from PurerAir.com at http://purerair.com/bird_dust_air_purifier.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6989245

Bird Digital Photography Tips

If first starting out in wildfowl photographs, you'll desire a minimum of a telephoto camera lens and a tripod. The telephoto camera lens must have a focal length of close to 300mm or maybe more. The more the focal length, the further you're able to be away from wild birds whenever taking pictures of them.

A further beneficial device is some kind of camouflage clothing. Numerous expert photography addicts make use of camouflage clothing to get nearer to birds or any other wildlife naturally.

So you've all of the fundamental apparatus...the next thing is definitely locating wild birds to shoot!

•     Springtime months are possibly the best periods to search out and take wild bird pics. Throughout later part of the spring season you'll perhaps have the opportunity to shoot mature wild birds nurturing their very own young.

•     Birds are generally most busy during the first couple of hrs following dawn. This is basically the perfect period to locate birds to snap. An additional advantage to the time is the fact that sun light won't be completely potent and offer excellent illumination.A few hrs ahead of sundown is yet another terrific time to shoot wildlife.

•     Forest expanses, parts with numerous trees and shrubs, nearby recreational areas, nature reserves, as well as locations with natural fruit/vegetation are perfect for locating wild birds.

•     Generally speaking, the greater natural the place the more likely you'll locate a wide array of wildlife. Seaside locations will also be excellent because numerous gulls are drawn to the food from the ocean.

•     Locating and taking snapshots of wild birds are not the same! It is crucial once you discover wildlife to keep low and approach them little by little to get nearer.Additionally it is essential that you never appear to be a menace to the wildlife. The simplest way to achieve this would be to head out on your own. Wild birds are usually top notch at understanding body gestures and while you could be nearing alright, your partner may well not.

•     Just because a wild bird might be near will not mean you now have a great photo. Seriously consider the perspective of the birds head. If for example the wild bird is facing away from your digital camera, consider holding out until they will look at the camera.

•     Trees and shrubs with numerous foliage help to make wild bird picture taking trickier because the foliage obstruct your vision as well as it trickier to discover birds. Wild birds in foliage with a lesser amount of leaves are much better to shoot.Ensure you undoubtedly focus the birds eye within your images.

•     Shooting flying birds creates several issues in focusing as well as exposure. Be certain you employ a shutter rate with a minimum of 1/1000 plus some kind of focusing apparatus.

•     Using single AF points and permitting the digital camera to track it works superb if a backdrop is straightforward. Birds right behind sky will demand keying in one or two additional stops to compensate for any dazzling sky.Uninterrupted capturing is essential if you're taking photos of moving wildlife. Quite often you will find yourself with only one or two decent pics per 100 taken.

•     A tremendous way to begin with flying wildlife would be to train by way of more substantial wild birds such as pelicans.You will find a wide range of adjustments you should employ determined by exactly what the pelican does. However, if you're taking photos of a bird in the bush, pre-focusing about the branch and employing manual focus is usually the most viable option. Whenever birds happen to be in flight, proceeding entirely manual is totally recommended.

•     With regard to any birds who aren't flying, aperture priority is wonderful because it means that you can manage the depth of field, that must be shallow.

•     Prior to moving out in the outdoors to shoot wildfowl, a superb strategy is to initially take pictures of the wildlife within your very back garden. In case you can't proficiently take pictures of wildlife within your garden how could you undertake it in the rough outdoors? Frequently wild bird photography enthusiasts might watch for several hours for that fantastic picture.

•     Wildfowl digital photography needs a good deal of persistence, study, as well as adoration. You'll encounter instances when you will end up frustrated. Developing a passion for digital photography as well as birds/nature is crucial in order to acquire high quality wild bird images.

Whenever taking photos in the outdoors, using values is vital.

Never bother the wildlife

Don't make the birds stressed

You should never change the environment

Don't feed wildlife in the wilderness.

If you are looking for more digital photography tips and tutorials then visit [http://www.digitalphotographytutorials4u.org] today and find out not only the basics of setting up and using a digital camera to capture that perfect picture as well as edit it too, but you can also learn Digital photography tutorials [http://digitalphotographytutorials4u.org] in simple to understand English.How about learning how to sell those prized pictures as well as ensuring the customer returns again and again?
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6862058

The Camping Stool As a Tool For Bird Watching

Many bird watchers out there have their share of fancy equipment like binoculars, scope, bird guides, bird song players and a whole bunch of other gadgets. However, a lot of them forget about the fact that they are going to be walking around all day during their outings. There will be times when these walks are going to be long or strenuous. If you're traveling to other countries, sometimes when you go birding, you don't know what kind of facilities you're going to be dealing with. A camping stool is an underestimated tool for birding, when it actually can be an essential part of your gear.
 

For starters, a camping stool is just like a regular stool or small chair with no back. It's also lighter and can be folded and easily carried everywhere because it is made usually of nylon and aluminum. There are several shapes, forms, sizes and colors. The important thing to look for is that it's comfortable for you. When you're birding in the rugged outdoors, there is no guarantee that you will find a place to sit and watch birds. Imagine how handy it is to have your own chair with you always.

One of its advantages is that the weight is very light and easy to carry. It's small enough that you can tie it to your back pack or carry it on your shoulder, and in some cases you can even fold it inside a small practical carry case. It's very easy to handle and can weigh as little as two pounds.

When it comes to watching birds, this artifact is very useful under different circumstances. It is ideal for open areas like marshes, beaches, wetlands, watch towers and grasslands, where you can easily sit and have an open view. Another alternative is to sit next to a tree and lean on it to check out birds high in the canopy without straining your neck. So why stand when you can sit and enjoy the view?

Besides these benefits, the obvious uses are for many outdoor activities. These include camping, picnics, campfires, fishing, photography and others. It's indispensable now that being in the wild doesn't necessarily mean having to be uncomfortable. Something this simple can go a long way in making your life easier.

Many brands are in the market from outdoor products. Prices range from 5 to 50 dollars depending on the brand and whether it is made of aluminum, metal or wood. At the end of the day, your choice should be narrowed down to how comfortable the stool is for you, and how easy it is to carry. After all, its going to be yet another gadget you'll have to bring along for birding.

Considering how small and practical these things are, now it's easier to ponder having one with you on your bird watching travels. In time it can even become an indispensable item as a bird guide or binoculars. Now that you have with you a light, easy to carry portable place to sit, it's easy to see that the camping stool is a new tool for bird watching.

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4448601

Different Types of Birds According to Their Diets

A good understanding of the foods birds eat can help us to get them nearer to us. Birds help to add life to the trees in your backyard, put some natural sounds in your surroundings, and simply make you feel close to nature. Different types of birds eat different kinds of foods.
 

If you are able to discover what types of foods the birds are eating in your place, you might be able to use these foods to make them come nearer to your place. Here are the types of birds based on the food they eat:

Avivores

Avivorous birds are simply birds of prey; they eat other birds in order to live. These birds, which include hawks, falcons, and crows, are characterized by strong wings, legs and talons. They are agile fliers that pursue smaller birds and grab the smaller ones with their claws.

Carnivores

These are birds of prey. They love to eat meat, but they don't feed on other birds. The majority of their diets include rodents, small mammals, fish, snakes and frogs. Carnivorous birds include eagles, owls, falcons, and large hawks.

Frugivores

Frugivores are the typical fruit-eaters that we often see in the woods or near our farms. These sweetly-colored avian friends are our feathered planters. They work to spread the seeds of plants throughout the forest. These birds, which include orioles, robins, bananaquits, parrots, and blue jays love apples, berries, plums, raisins, bananas and other fruits. By the way, some bats eat fruits, but they are not birds; they are mammals.

Granivores

Granivores are birds that make grain as their primary food. Many birds belong to this category. They are the ones that are easy to attract in our backyards, if only we know what to lure them with. Examples of granivores include pigeons, sparrows, finches, parakeets, cardinals, and doves.

Insectivores

Insectivorous birds also depend on flesh for their diet, but this time, they prey on insects. Most insectivores are small, but these birds do a lot to help farmers and gardeners. They help to control the population of pests that destroy plants. These avian friends of ours include phoebes, bluebirds, warblers, woodpeckers, and chirping sparrows. Many birds that are not insectivores by nature hunt insects to feed their young.

It's just unfortunate that when farmers spray their plants with insecticides, they also destroy the birds that eat the dead insects. It's one of the main reasons why insect-eating birds are disappearing today.

Molluscivores

Molluscivores are shore birds that feed on snails, oysters and slugs. Many molluscivores converge at the seashore during low tide to hunt for clams and oysters. Other birds of this type prefer to stay in swamps to find their favorite food.

Nectivores

These birds feed on nectar from flowers. They help in the cross-pollination of flowers to make them develop and produce seeds. This is a symbiotic relationship that allows plants and birds to thrive together. Some of the most known nectivores include honeyeaters, hummingbirds, honeycreepers, sunbirds, and spiderhunters.

Ophiophagous Birds

Ophiophagous birds are feathered creatures that eat snakes. There are just a few bird species that include snakes as part of their main diet. These include the secretary bird, snake eagles, and some hawks and herons.

Palynivores

Palynivores are birds that eat pollen. There are not many birds which are strictly pollen-eaters. But a lot of insectivores and nectivores do consume pollen when foraging.

Piscivores

Piscivores are birds that dive or wade into the water to catch fish with their specialized beaks or strong claws. Some examples of piscivores include kingfishers, ospreys, seagulls, and cormorants.

These are the types of birds according to the food they eat. If you want to raise birds or attract them in your place, you should know their diet. Familiarize yourself with bird products at AussieVetProducts so that you will know what to give them to keep them healthy.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/8014530

Top Ten Bird Feather FAQ & Facts

We've all picked up, vacuumed and swept up millions of feathers. But what do we really know about feathers? This article lists some interesting facts and frequently asked questions about feathers.
 

What are feathers made of? Feathers are made of Keratin. This is a protein molecule manufactured by skin cells. The beak covering and the toe nails are also made of Keratin. Did you know that human fingernails and hair are also made of Keratin?

What are feathers used for?

•     Feathers provide insulation and maintain body heat. This is mostly a function of the down feathers.    

•     Feathers provide flight and mobility. This is primarily a function of the flight feathers (Primary, Secondary, and Tail feathers).    

•     Feathers provide safety by providing camouflage which helps the bird blend into it's surrounding.    

•     Feathers provide a means of communication. Flapping, Flying, Flaring tails and Fluffing are all forms of communicating to the flock.    

•     Feathers also provide a way of attracting mates. The beautiful plumage can be irresistible to some prospective mates.

What are the three major types of feathers?

•     Down - These are the fluffy feathers located beneath the contour feathers that help maintain the body temperature.

•     Contour - These feathers cover the contour (body) of the bird. They resemble Down feathers near the base (fluffy) and are stiffer toward the tips like Flight feathers. These feathers help to keep the wind and rain away from the bird's body while providing a more aerodynamic shape.

•     Flight - Made up of Primary, Secondary and Tail feathers, these feathers provide the lift for flight and stability. The Primary and Secondary feathers (Remiges) are connected to the major bones in the bird's wings and are asymmetrical similar to the wing or airfoil of an airplane. The Tail feathers (Retrices) are symmetrical and provide stability during flight similar to the rudder on an airplane.

What are the major groups of feathers? 

•     Primary Flight Feathers - These are the main feathers attached to the wing tips. There are usually eleven (11) but the quantity may vary with species. Six (6) are attached to the metacarpal part of the wing and the remaining extend along the Major Digit to the wing tip.

•     Secondary Flight Feathers - These flight feathers are attached to the Radius and Ulna bones. The quantity varies greatly from less than Ten (10) in some passerine species up to Forty (40) in larger species (albatross).

•     Primary Coverts - Contour feathers that cover the base of the Primary feathers.

•     Secondary Coverts - Coverts or contour feathers that cover the base of the Secondary feathers.

•     Median Wing Coverts - The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Primary Coverts and Secondary Coverts.

•     Minor Wing Coverts- The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Median Wing Coverts.

•     Marginal Wing Coverts- The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Minor Wing Coverts.

•     Tail Feathers - (AKA Retrices) These are flight feathers located on the tail. Unlike the Primary and Secondary flight feathers, the tail feathers are often symmetrical and help to provide stability during flight.

•     Upper Tail Coverts - Contour feathers that cover the base of the Tail feathers (Retrices).

•     Ear Coverts - Contour feathers around the ear.

Where do all the pretty feather colors come from? There can be three types of pigments in a bird's feathers; Carotenoids, Melanins, and Turacoverdins. Carotenoids (Carotenes and the Xanthophylls) are the yellow to red pigments that impart the bright yellows, oranges, and reds to the feathers. Melanin (Eumelanin Melanin and Phaeomelanin Melanin) are the pigments that impart the brown, black or gray shades of colors.  Finally, the Turacoverdins are the pigments that produce various shades of green. But where does the blue color come from? The blue colors come from reflective interference. In combination with Melanin and Lutin, reflective interference also produces green and other shades. It is also what gives the feathers their iridescence. This coloration is produced by the same phenomenon that gives color to a film of oil on a water surface.

What is Preening? The preen gland is an oil secreting gland located at the base of the tail in most birds. As the bird grooms itself, the powderdown feathers break apart into powder. It is the combination of the oil from the preen gland and the powder from the powderdown feathers that creates and maintains a clean and well-groomed bird. Preening is also a means of socializing between birds. This social function also helps to get at those "hard to reach" areas. Preening is also the time for a bird to remove worn or damaged feathers during the molting season.

Are feathers dead or alive? Feathers are alive while they are developing. They have a blood supply during this time. After the feather's blood supply dries up, the Keratin sheath around it falls off or is removed by the bird revealing the feather. The feather is considered "dead' at this point because it possesses neither innervations nor a blood supply. Caution: During the development stage, serious damage can occur and the bird can bleed to death if a feather is broken during the development stage. It is also critical to avoid the blood line in the feathers when clipping a bird's wings.

What is Molting? A mature feather is not a living feather. So damage or wear on a feather cannot be repaired. Birds solve this problem by periodically replacing their feathers in a process called molting. Though this may be an ongoing process, it predominantly occurs once or twice a year for most birds usually in the spring or fall. It also occurs symmetrically. The same feathers on the right side will often molt at the same time as the left side. This helps to maintain the ability to fly in a balanced manner. Typically the fifth flight feather (both sides) falls out first and then flight feathers alternating on each side of the fifth flight feather will fall out in turn. This process will continue until all flight feathers have molted. The sequence typically takes weeks or longer to complete. As feathers fall out, new ones called pin feathers take their place. These are living feathers with a blood supply inside them. As the new pin feather matures, a thin sheath of keratin covering protects the pin feather. As the feather continues to mature, the blood supply will dry up and the keratin cover will fall off or be preened off to reveal a beautiful new feather.

What is Feather Plucking? According to the Pet Parrot Book there are three major causes; poor diet, lack of bathing opportunities and boredom. According to one source, feather picking ".. isn't a disease, but a symptom. This vexing problem could be cause by poor health or diet, or by stress or other psychological triggers."

What can I do if my bird is a feather plucker? This is a very complex question because feather plucking can be caused by a wide variety of things. So generally the first step is to determine the root cause of the plucking. Most experts recommend the following.

•     Take the bird to a veterinarian for a complete analysis. This should include a physical exam and laboratory tests. This will isolate the problem if it is a physical problem (diet, poisoning, illness, etc).

•     Carefully review your bird's environment for contaminants, air pollutants, smells, odors, or anything else than can contaminate your birds feathers. It is possible that the bird's feathers can be so contaminated that the bird literally wants to pull the feathers out. Just because that lovely scented candle smells good to you doesn't mean that the contamination to your bird's feathers smells good to your bird.

•     Carefully review your bird's surroundings for anything that has changed, been added, or removed at or around the time the problem plucking began which may be frightening to you bird. This can include toys, furniture, animals, kids, etc. A behavioral problem can cause plucking and it may not be obvious to you. Adding a chair to the room next to a bird's cage may be sufficient enough to frighten the bird and cause psychological damage sufficient to cause plucking.

The Author is the creator of the InfoSuperFlyway.com. It's a Web page dedicated to Kibibi a Congo African Grey Parrot with parrot recordings, funny parrot videos, top ten lists, parrot jokes, clicker training info and a large database of parrot articles.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2074589

7 Tips For Better Wild Bird Pictures

Capturing great bird stock photos can be challenging at times, but with good preparation, the right equipment and a few simple tips, it can also be quite fun and rewarding. What follows are our top tips for capturing better stock bird photos.

Know Your Venue

If you're hoping to capture some great wild bird pictures, the first thing you need to do is get to know your venue. First up, do some research and find out what species you're likely to spot. From there you can work out where and when you're likely to find them
 

If you can find a map of some description, convert that to a sketch map so you can mark your own details on it. Then when you first arrive, mark out the overhead path of the sun so you can anticipate lighting in different locations, mark in different vegetation/habitat types, and where you can find good cover for yourself.

Then as you spot different species, mark the locations (and times) in as well and you'll soon have a very handy reference guide for future shoots. When you return you'll know where you need to be and what time of day you need to be there, to capture the bird photographs you seek.

Most of the best bird photographers I know tell me they rarely get their best shots on the first visit... the best wild bird pictures usually happen once they know the location as well as their own backyard.

Know Your Subject

This should go without say for any sort of wildlife photography, but it's particularly important for capturing great bird photographs. Birds are incredibly fast and often seem totally unpredictable, so the better you get to know them, the better your chances of anticipating their behaviour and getting the shot you want.

For starters, invest in a good bird guide and learn everything you can about the species you want to photograph. Getting to know their feeding habits, breeding, nesting and migratory behaviours will help you make sure you are in the right place at the right time.

Knowledge of their specific behaviour, from guides and observation, will help you anticipate what they're going to do once you've found them. The more time you spend observing the birds, the better you'll be able to predict their behaviour, and it will give them more time to get used to you.

There are some behaviours that are fairly universal though, so you can start with these.

Most birds will take off and land into the wind, so if there's a prevailing wind direction at your venue, be aware of it and position yourself facing towards the birds likely location with the sun behind you... ie. so you get your photos with the bird flying towards you, lit from the front.

Most birds also 'tense' their feathers just before they take off. When they're relaxed (and going no where) they'll look more 'fluffy'. When they're about to take flight, they almost seem to shrink for a second or two before launching themselves. If you watch for this, it can be a great trigger to start shooting.

Buy the Longest Fastest Lens You Can Afford

This one comes with a caveat... you don't need an exorbitantly expensive lens to get marketable bird photos... but any extra length you can afford will help.

Some of the best bird photographers I know will use nothing more than a standard 100mm-400mm telephoto and they get incredible results. In fact most will tell you it's more about the preparation &research, good positioning and using patient stalking techniques.

So in a perfect world, all bird photographers would have a 600mm f4 auto focus lens, but realistically, anything over 300mm is probably good enough if you hone your other birding skills.

You can of course use a teleconvertor... a 1.4 teleconvertor on a 400mm lens will put you in the 600mm range, but be aware you will lose a couple of stops in the process. In open well lit settings that can be OK, but in any sort of vegetation it's probably going to make life difficult.

A final option a lot of dedicated birders use 'digiscoping'... attaching their camera to their spotting scope. A spotting scope with 25x magnification would be equivalent to a 1500mm lens, so even when you buy the adaptor as well, it can be a very affordable way of getting close to your subjects.

Camera Settings

In most cases, you'll want to use the fastest possible settings to deal with the speed and mobility of your subjects, and also with the long lens you'll be using. When the birds are flying, you'll usually need at least a 1/500 second shutter speed to keep it crisp. Even when they're perched, many birds are fidgets and rarely keep perfectly still.

There will be times when you want to slow it down and convey the motion and this can (should) be done deliberately. Just remember there's a difference between a photo deliberately captured to convey movement, and one that's just not sharp. If you're going for 'movement' my suggestion would be to use panning to make sure there's no question in the viewer's mind that it's deliberate!

Digital ISO settings allow you to speed things up considerably, just be aware of how fast you can go before the picture quality suffers.

Always remember to constantly check your exposures. White, bright skies will trick your camera's auto-exposure so for in flight shots you'll generally need to dial in 1-2 stops or more exposure compensation.

Other Equipment

Usually a tripod would be considered essential equipment when using a long lens, but often the situations you find yourself setting up in might make it difficult. By all means use one whenever you can, especially if you're working from a hide or semi-permanent position, but if you're on the move, I always find a monopod a lot more useful. In wooded areas there's usually a tree to brace myself on,

A lot of bird photographers will tell you their car makes a great hide and tripod all in one. Many birds are quite used to cars by now, so if you arrive on site and sit quietly for a few minutes, many birds will soon forget the car is there. Keep a small bean bag handy for a camera rest and your in business.

Always carry extra battery power and extra storage, and in the field a few plastic bags help for protecting your gear from the elements. If you're really roughing it, a lot of pros will suggest you don't even change lenses... if they really need a choice of lens, they'll carry it already attached to an extra camera body, just to avoid any chance of getting dirt or water inside.

Compositions

There are a few basic rules that apply to most wildlife photography, and they are particularly relevant to bird photographers as well.

    First and foremost, focus on the eyes.
    If the eyes are sharp, the rest doesn't matter.
    And if the eyes aren't sharp, the rest doesn't matter!

No doubt there will be exceptions, but if you keep that firmly in mind when you're shooting and also when your editing, you will end up with a much stronger collection.

Another 'rule' that applies to most wildlife photography is, shoot from the front. With few exceptions, there's rarely much call for the rear end view of any create leaving the scene.

The approaching view is much more natural, and generally your viewers will find it easier to connect with. With bird it's even more important as you usually find front on is the view they present to their mates, while the rear view is more likely to be plain or even camouflaged.

Finally, as much as possible, shoot from eye height.

For ground or shore birds, this often means getting down on your belly. For high nesting birds it means getting as high as you can yourself. Obviously you can't always get to their level, but the more you try, the better your results will be. Telephoto lenses do help give the impression you're more equal but don't rely on that alone.

If you're photographing birds in flight you need to anticipate and pan, and be extra careful not to crop too tightly. Much better to trim things later than find you repeatedly clipped off a tail or a wing. Always try to capture the birds flying into the frame, rather than out of it.

Always watch the wing position of the species you're photographing and also refer to your bird guide. Different species will present very distinct shapes, and the ability to capture those behaviours and traits that make a creature unique is what separates the great wildlife photographers.

Make sure you get good clear detail shots as well so you can be totally confident in your identification of the bird. That means close up shots of the head & beak, breast and back, as well as wing and tail shapes. (If you are planning to sell the images, ever, accurate identification is essential, so don't ever rely totally on common-names... buyers will usually want scientific names just to be totally sure).

Patience & Practice

When you arrive on site, always give the local inhabitants time to get used to you being there, you will get better images. Don't try to force the issue be going too close to fast... at best they'll just fly away, at worst they'll look visibly stressed... which never makes a good photo anyway.

Instead, wait and watch and work out what the comfort zone is for the species, and stay just outside that. Most birds are instinctively afraid of people, but if you sit and wait quietly, you'll also find most are quite inquisitive, and many will actually approach you if you give them the opportunity.

Beyond that, shoot often and shoot heaps. Don't expect your best shots on your first visit to an area, instead treat is as a scouting trip. Work out your lines of light, wind and where your cover is, and identify as many species as you can... that you can research more fully before your next outing.

If you're just starting out in bird photography,you might even find it useful to set up a feeder at your home, so you can practice and observe the birds in relatively closed environment. Remember, the more time you spend getting to know your subjects, the better your photos are going got be.

Finally, spend plenty of time studying other people's wild bird pictures. Dissect each shot and think about how it was created... in terms of equipment, settings, timing, positioning and the photographer's understanding of the bird and it's behaviour.

The great wild bird pictures don't happen by accident. In fact, quite often you'll find the best bird images aren't shot by bird photographers but by birders with photography skills. Something to keep in mind!

Matt Brading

Visit GlobalEye Images to view amazing wild bird pictures from our top bird photographers:
http://www.GlobalEyeImages.com/Photographers/PhotographsBirds.asp
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Capturing Birds in Flight

A shot of a bird in flight has always been a challenge to photographers. Seeing a perfect print image only serves to make them eager to create the same result. Photographing a bird in flight presents one problem, but capturing that one special bird-in-flight shot that's in focus and has good composition plus good light can represent a whole set of problems. Everyone has his share of good flight shots where the bird may be just a tiny bit soft. Those are easy. But, how do you get a great flight shot?
 

The camera technology of the last several years has made flight photography easier than it was before, but there are still lots of variables that need to be added to the equation to make good bird-in-flight photography a common part of your repertoire. Here are some fundamentals to help you increase your supply of flight shots:

Camera Body Features

The camera body equipment out today has made action photography much easier than it was when manual focus was the rule rather than the exception. The first handy feature to set is the continuous focus mode called AI Servo on Canon and Continuous Servo on Nikon. This setting allows the lens to keep changing the focus as long as the shutter button is depressed halfway and the subject is in the set auto focus point.

Second, Canon has a custom function that expands the auto focus point activation area to either 7 or 13 points. This is a great function, as it allows for the subject movement to remain in focus even if you don't keep up with the movement of the bird in your primary AF point.

Drive mode is the third camera function to set. Here, the best setting is "high-speed continuous" where you get the most frames per second that your camera body will allow. While you'll burn quite a few shots with this setting, it will allow more shots to choose from for the wing position and lighting you like best.

Lens Selection

Lens selection is a very subjective topic with plenty of correct answers. Being a Canon shooter, I'll refer to Canon lenses, but many other brands have some comparable lenses. If you want to do flight photography handholding your camera and lens, the best choices are the 400 f/5.6 and the 100-400 IS. These are, by far, the best lenses on the market for flight photography. (Canon shooters have the advantage here, as the comparable Nikon lens, the 80-400 VR, is very slow to focus. People in my workshops have wanted to throw their Nikon lenses as far as they could when they couldn't force them to focus fast enough.)

When handholding, try to keep your hand as far out on the barrel of the lens as possible to provide better balance while you're panning and moving around with the subject. Also, tuck your elbows into your body as far as you can and keep your legs about shoulder-width apart. This position helps you turn your body into a tripod.

Your skill level also plays a part in proper lens selection. When you're starting out in bird photography, it's best to use the above lenses as opposed to "big guns" such as the 400 f/2.8, 500 and 600mm lenses. The reason is that shorter focal length lenses will provide easier tracking of the birds in the viewfinder. With the larger lenses, you have a very limited viewing range when the birds are close. You have to get them in view when they're farther away and stay with them until they move close enough for you to take your shot. After time and practice, you'll find it easier to focus on them when they're close, but even then you'll miss some shots. Longer focal lengths also allow you to work at greater distances with less change in subject position. Birds going across the frame are easier to track, particularly with a long focal length, than those coming directly into the camera, since they stay at roughly the same distance.

If you plan to shoot from a tripod instead of wanting to hand hold the camera/lens combination, a big lens will definitely do the trick. If you're setting up a big lens on a tripod, by far the best option for a tripod head is the Wimberley head. The gimbal action is designed for action photography and makes panning with the birds easier than you could imagine if you've never used one of these heads. You can use a sturdy ball head, but you have to be careful with how loose you keep it. I primarily use my 400 f/2.8, sometimes with an extender, with the Wimberley head and then keep a second body close at hand with a 70-200 f/2.8 lens and either a 1.4 or 2X extender attached.

The faster the f-stop of the lens, the better, as quick shutter speeds are imperative in getting sharp flight shots. It's best to be able to stick with a f/2.8 lens but this isn't always an option, depending on how much money you can spend. F/4 and f/5.6 are about as slow as you want for getting quick action shots, whether the subject is birds-in-flight or any other fast-moving subject.

Advancing lens technology has made flight photography much easier, but not foolproof. Auto focus is the major development that has helped to capture action. Be aware that owning an AF lens is not a guarantee of sharp results. There is no substitute for good technique. However, auto focus does yield a higher percentage of acceptable images when you're shooting birds in flight, especially if you have a camera body that can shoot upwards of eight frames a second or more.

ISO

Because digital cameras keep improving the quality of images you get at higher ISO settings, it's now alright to push the setting to 200 or even 400 to get good flight shots, depending on the available light. The caution to keep in mind is that a shutter speed of at least 1/500 is needed--preferably even 1/1000 or more, if possible. Doing a little bit of testing with shutter speed and f-stop will help you determine what the ISO needs to be for you to obtain the desired shutter speed.

Lighting

As with any other subject, lighting is critical with flight photography. The best light condition for flight photography is front lighting, with the sun at your back and the birds coming towards you or across in front. The best light is still those two golden times of day when the sun is low on the horizon, but because the subject is high in the sky, you can extend your shooting time as the higher sun can still bounce nice light off the bird.

Composition

A key detail to keep in mind when you're composing flight shots is which auto focus point is set. You need to become adept at changing the auto focus point on the fly for you to get good flight shots. As multiple birds are flying around your location, you have to be aware of which point you've selected for the best composition.

The best compositions have space in front of the bird in the direction the bird is flying. Having its beak/ bill crowded against the leading edge of the shot makes for a potential throwaway image, even if everything else is right with the shot. Your subject needs room to breathe, and continually changing the AF point for better composition will provide the space you need to maintain in front of the bird.

Starting out, keep the AF point on the center point and try to get the bird's eye focused there. This will ensure there is room in front of the bird for it to fly into the frame. While the eye will be in the middle of the frame, the majority of the bird will be behind it, so you'll be keeping the full bird from being centered in the frame.

Technique

The farther away you can get the subject into your viewfinder, the better. If you try to focus only on a bird that's close to your position, you'll never get a good flight shot. As you see a bird coming in your direction, get it in the viewfinder, and track with it as it moves closer. Once it's in the position you like (the preferred frame size and in good light), you can fire away.

When you're panning a bird in flight, continue the panning motion even after you've taken the final shot. Following through will keep that last shot in focus better than if you abruptly stopped the movement. It's the same idea as a golfer doing a follow-through on her shot or a baseball player continuing with his swing. A good way to do this is to continue shooting after the bird has passed you by. The last couple shots will be throwaways, but you'll have included the shot you really want.

The eyes have it. As with any wildlife photo, you need to have the eye in sharp focus. If the eye is out-of-focus, then the shot is not of a technical quality suitable for publication. If possible, try to set your AF point on the eye. If you can't do this, at least get the focus on the neck, as the neck of a bird is on the same plane as the eye.

Location

The biggest factor to keep in mind when you're shooting flight photography is the relationship of the wind and the sun. Birds will always (well, almost always) take off and land into whatever wind or breeze there is. Getting the wind under their wings help them with lift and drag. Putting yourself in the right position to get the best flight shots means having both the wind and the sun at your back, allowing the birds to come towards you.

As you see, there are plenty of factors to keep in mind when you're taking flight shots of birds. You have to think about how much you want the bird to fill the frame, what the background is like, and the direction of the subject in relation to the sun. Since these variables change from picture to picture, you begin to understand that creating great flight shots requires more than just getting the subject sharp. You'll need to give yourself time and practice. In the meantime, you always have the delete button on both the camera and the computer.

My 600 f/4 sitting on a Wimberley head with my camera set to high-speed continuous and the sun and wind at my back will keep me happy for a good long time. I try to get caught up with what's in front of me, fly with it, and become part of the action. The next stop for me will be in front of my computer, looking at lots of shots of birds in flight and, hopefully, lots of keepers.

Andy Long is an award-winning photographer / writer who devotes his photography work to the beauty of the world around us. As a leader of workshops ( http://www.firstlighttours.com ) since 1994, Andy likes to help people explore new areas and to go home with a memorable experience as well as great images.

With more than 100,000 stock images, work has appeared in more than 30 publications and books as well as appearing in National Geographic and Animal Planet television shows. Besides these, Andy's work has also appeared in Birder's World, Outdoor Life, Audubon Regional Field Guides, regional AAA magazines, Montana Magazine, Outdoor and Nature Photography, Photo Media, National Cowboy Museum's Persimmon Hill, Ancient Images note cards, travel brochures, Sierra Photographers Focus and in ads for Rollei cameras. He is a previous winner of the national RoseWater Network Photographer of the Year award.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/713038

Myths About Sexing African Greys

If you have an African Grey and don't know if it's a cock (male) or hen (female) then you've probably tried to figure it out using one of the following myths. These myths can be found all over the internet, forums and blogs. The myths are spread by owners, breeders and sometimes even vets! The truth is that there isn't a reliable visual (naked eye) way to tell if an African Grey is a cock or hen. African Greys are monomorphic which means they are visually difficult to determine the gender. The following myths about sexing African Grey's are the most common myths that continue to survive on the internet.
 

Myth #1 - Males are larger than the females.
Myth #2 - Males have darker wings than the females.
Myth #3 - Males have larger more powerful beaks than the females.
Myth #4 - Males have a round iris and females have an elliptical iris
Myth #5 - Males have light tips on their wing feathers and the females have solid colored wing feathers.
Myth #6 - Males have a flatter square head and females have a rounder head when viewed from the side (profile).
Myth #7 - Males have a pointed shaped bare skin area around eyes and the females have a rounded shape bare skin area.
Myth #8 - Males have solid dark gray feather color extending from chest to tail and female feathers fade to a lighter gray toward the tail.
Myth #9 - Males have solid red feathers around their vent (coverts under the tail) and female have a gray border of feathers around their vent (coverts under the tail).
Myth #10 - Males have two major color bands under their wings (light gray at wing forward edge and dark gray at the wing tips) and females have three major bands of color under the wings (light gray at wing forward edge, white in a middle band and dark gray at the wing tips).

Useful Terminology

DNA Sexing Procedure -The avian DNA test utilizes differences on the sex chromosomes of birds in order to determine their sex. Male and female birds give distinctive and different DNA patterns, resulting in conclusive and accurate sex identification. DNA sexing can be performed with blood, plucked feathers or eggshell samples.

Monomorphic - Birds can be described as monomorphic if their sex cannot be determined by their markings or the color of their feathers. The majority of parrot species are monomorphic.

Surgical Sexing Procedure - AKA Laparoscopy - a surgical procedure in which a tiny scope is inserted into the abdomen through a small incision enabling the veterinarian to do a visual inspection of the internal reproductive organs.

PCR - AKA polymerase chain reaction - a laboratory technique that can amplify the amount of DNA from a tiny sample to a large amount.

The Author is the creator of the InfoSuperFlyway.com. It's a webpage dedicated to Kibibi a Congo African Grey Parrot with parrot recordings, funny parrot videos, top ten lists, parrot jokes, clicker training info and a large database of parrot articles. For more articles about African Greys and other Parrots, this check out Kibibi's Parrot Article Archive.
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How to Create a Healthy Diet Plan for Your Pet Bird

Even though they have become quite common, birds are still considered to be exotic pets. This is the reason why many owners are not sure about the right way in which to feed them. Perhaps the biggest mistake is to offer only seeds as they do not offer the full spectrum of nutrients required by these lovely creatures. Find out how to feed your pet bird properly so that it is healthy and happy.
 

Food Diversity

Just like you, your pet requires a diverse and balanced diet. You can feed it some seeds, but they should form only a portion of its diet. The bird pallets are an excellent choice of food to give to your pet on a daily basis. They contain all the nutrients which birds require to be healthy. Just make sure that you pick a natural product which does not contain artificial additives, preservatives or colourings.

Your pet will certainly love to eat vegetables and fruits. They are excellent sources of carbs, fibre and vitamins and minerals. The vegetables and fruits which birds love the most include carrots, turnips, radishes, broccoli, corn, apples, bananas, berries, pineapple, cherries and mango. It is best if you feed your pet with fresh seasonal vegetables and fruits to achieve maximum diversity.

Other foods which you can include in the diet to make it diverse are raw almonds, kidney beans and lentils. These are great sources of healthy protein and healthy fat. Sprouted seeds, grains, nuts and legumes are great delicacies for birds in addition to being packed with nutrients. You can readily sprout dormant seeds and legumes at home by wrapping them a moist cotton ball and leaving them in a jar.

Feeding

Pet birds do not have set meal times, but it is best if you provide fresh food in the morning and in the evening. One important thing to know is that in nature these animals actually work for their food. They spend about a third of the day foraging. That is why you will do a great favour to your pet if you place a foraging feeder in the cage. That way, you will give it both physical and mental stimulation.

Cleanliness

You should never leave food in the cage for more than a day as it may get heavily contaminated with droppings or get spoiled. It is never wise to pour large amounts of feed and then forget about feeding your pet for weeks. You should also wash all feeders and dishes with warm water and detergent every day or every other day.

You now know how to feed your pet bird in the best possible way.

Keep your pet healthy and happy with Pet Supplies NZ. No matter whether you have a bird, dog, cat or any other four-legged family member, you will find the ideal food with ease.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/8497298

Binoculars For Bird Watching - 3 Things You Should Know

Bird watching is a great activity as well as a special hobby for anyone and also one that can last for years to come. It does take a lot of patience and sharp observance. Whether your interest is to merely view these lovely creatures from your backyard or learning about their habits, it is a good thing to have a decent pair of binoculars for bird watching.
 

Perhaps you have decided that it is time to really enjoy your birding and you are ready to purchase your first pair of binoculars. You should be aware that not all of these gadgets are created equal and there are some things to keep in mind when searching for a suitable pair. Here are 3 things you should keep in mind.

1. Magnification of the Lenses

Having a clear view of the birds is your first thought. And with this in mind you need to make sure that the magnification is at least 7x35. You can get by with just a simple pair, but if you want to spend a little more in order to get multiple magnification from 8x up to 10x you will most certainly have the benefit of getting a much larger picture of your bird.

It all depends on you as to which size lens you want. If you need something not so heavy, then you may want to go for the less magnified. But if you are wanting a clearer picture with more light then you will need the larger lens, although they will be a bit heavier.

2. Flexibility and Focus

Try moving the barrels. Are they tight? These should move easily, making for a more comfortable hold and less likely to break. Binoculars for bird watching should feel comfortable and be easy to control.

Testing the focus is not always easy inside a building because stores are not normally very light. Try using a brighter side of the room and focus on an object that is fairly close as well as one that is farther away. Do you have to alter it much for a clear view? If you do that means "poor quality" and you may want to avoid those.

3. Size of Exit Pupil

This might not seem important, but it is because this has an influence on how clear a view you will have. The exit pupil is the amplified view of the image you see in the eye-piece when it is leaving the binoculars and entering your eye. In order to get the best image you will need an exit pupil that is no less than 4mm. Keep in mind that if you want to avoid dark images the exit pupil ought always to be larger than the pupils of your own eyes.

Ok, one last tip on how to bring an object into focus. Did you know that your nose is a great pointer? Well, it is. While holding your binoculars for bird watching, point at the object with your nose without moving your face. Bring the binoculars to your eyes without taking your eyes off the object. A beginner often makes the mistake of moving or dropping their face towards the binoculars. With a little practice it will soon become natural.

For more great tips on backyard birding and bird watching visit BJay's Blog for Bird Lovers at: http://www.BackyardBirdingBlog.org where you can get information on bird houses, bird feeders and other accessories including Binoculars For Bird Watching.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3863263

Parrot Facts for the Young

Anyone who is seriously considering buying their children a parrot needs to do plenty of research on parrot facts before even deciding which kind to buy. Parrots make wonderful pets, for the right owners, but some are more appropriate for children than others. Even the more appropriate ones can take quite a bit of energy and attention in order to maintain the bird's health. They need even more attention than kittens or puppies.
 

If you have very young children, you might not be ready for a parrot at all. You might want to consider a more social finch, instead. They are colorful, sweet, and require very little attention, compared to any one of the parrot species. If your child is old enough to assist with feeding, watering, and cleaning the cage, though, he might be ready for the smallest, gentlest one, the budgerigar parakeet. They come in all sorts of colors ranging from green, to yellow, to white. You can even get them in varying shades of blue. They don't require huge cages or much space in your home, and they live about the same length of time as cats and dogs, 10 to 15 years.

If your child is a little older and is willing and able to take on more responsibility, then he might be ready for a cockatiel. These birds come in pale yellow and gray and are about two and a half times the size of a parakeet. Though their bills can be sharp, and they can, like most parrots, sometimes be a little surly, they don't pose the danger of the bigger parrots, like Conures and Macaws. These larger birds have beaks and talons that can do serious, blood-letting damage to children and adults who don't know what to expect. Generally, cockatiels are loving and social without causing too much difficulty.

The larger members of the parrot family should be left strictly for adult owners and handlers, however. Because they require so much attention, they won't necessarily just sulk in their bird cages if they are ignored. They will do whatever they can to demand attention. Such birds can be quite aggressive if not handled properly, and the difficulty in teaching children how to deal with such a challenging bird is probably not worth the hassle. But whatever kind of bird you decide to buy, make sure you get as many parrot facts as possible before you take the plunge.

Alan is a lover of animals and nature. He writes on all types of alternative farming topics, as well as nature articles including those on tortoise facts and parrot facts [http://www.parrotfacts.org/].
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Parrot Cage and Toys

Toys and a Cage For Your Parrot

This for people who wish to cage their parrot; I don't believe in caging my parrots for humanitarian reasons. If you decide in caging your parrot, here are the best tips I can offer you.

Housing your parrot is a very important factor; it is the difference to between a healthy parrot with normal behavior and a parrot with behavioral problems. You really need to keep in mind the life expectancy of your parrot. Parrots have the ability to live beyond 20 years of age. That is why it is important to create a happy, healthy and fun home for your parrot.

 

Your cage should be considered carefully. You must allow enough space for exercise, entertainment and self-expression for your parrot. Remember it will be in a cage for a large part of the day while you are out. Buy a cage that fits into your home. If you want to buy a macaw, ask yourself, "Do I have room for that large of a cage," if the answer is "No," then it is probably not a good idea and to rethink as to what kind of parrot will fit best in your home. Get a parrot that fits into your home in cage size, then a parrot that you have no room for. You will both benefit from this decision.

Dimensions of Your Cage

Get a parrot cage that offers a comfortable and safe environment for you and your parrot making sure it is suitable for your home. At minimum; the dimensions of the parrot cage need to be considered, from the bottom of the cage to the top of the cage. The size of the cage should be twice the size for your parrot to fully expand its wings and one and half in length for room for its tail.

Bar Spacing on the Cage

The cage spacing is critical as it could be a difference between an injured parrot and a healthy parrot. It should be narrow enough so it cannot get its head through. The bars should both be vertical and horizontal so they have both bar spacing to climb around on. If you cannot find a cage with both bar spacing, get a cage with vertical bars; as it is easier for them to navigate on. The thickness of the bars is very important to keep in mind. Parrots have very powerful beaks. It is usually recommended that you get a wrought iron or stainless steel cage. Though they are costly, you will benefit and be grateful in the long run.

Design of the Cage and Perches

It is best to get a rectangular cage, as it fits best in your home, it may take up a little more room but there is more room for your parrot to hop from perch to perch and play. Tall cages are impractical as parrots do not fly up and down. Round cages lead to a situation of constant cleaning because the droppings will fall on the lower perches and into their food and water bowls. Also a round cage is ineffective because your parrot can only climb the bars and move from only one perch comfortably.

The perches should be made of hard wood like Manzanita or Iron Wood. I prefer Manzanita as it is easy to clean and it is difficult for your parrot to chew through. Getting a softer wood is costly and you have to replace them more often. Sand paper covered perches is not recommended because they can lead to serious foot irritation, sores and deep infections. Get different widths as it will be comfortable for gripping on their feet and it will give your parrot more of a chance to exercise.

Dishes for Your Parrot

Dishes are very important as it is what they will be eating out of and drinking water from. Get the dish for the size of the parrot, a cockatiel isn't going to eat out of a macaw dish and a macaw isn't going to eat out of a cockatiels' dish. Get dishes that are easy to clean and to disinfect. The positioning of the dish is very important put it where your parrot likes to eat and drink. I do not recommend putting them near the bottom of the cage or on the bottom of the cage; you will find you will be cleaning them constantly. Put them in the middle near a perch. Get dishes that attach to the cage. They will be thrown. Amazons in particular are renowned for throwing. If your cage does not have holders for the dishes, there are metal holders that can be attached to the cage.

Parrot Toys

There are no quality controls on toys for your parrots. Therefore you have to check the safety of the toys yourself. Parrots like bells, hanging toys, wood and rope. Rope toys you have to watch carefully, as they can get entangled in their feet when the rope tethers. If it tethers just trim it with scissors. Make sure the parrot toys you get do not have small parts that will come off, as they can be swallowed. Like a child's toy, just make sure it is safe for your parrot to play with. Experiment with toys and see what they like to play with. Get enough toys so you can rotate them so your parrot won't get bored.

A parrot cage should be fun and safe. Keeping this all in mind will lead to a healthy and happy life for your parrot. The expense will pay off in the long run as your parrot may out live you. It is not just housing your parrot; it is making them feel like it is a fun and a safe room to be in. Remember this is their room in your house as it is just like your bed room is for you.

Peter has four very proud parrot species from all over the world. We have lived with our four parrots for over 15 years. All of our parrots are domestically born. The joy we share with them is immeasurable.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7214139

Bird Watching Tips - Make the Most of Bird Watching Tour

Indulge yourself in the pleasant and adventurous activity of birding by opting for a bird watching holiday this season. Explore the mystery and discover numerous bird species present in India. But before you plan for one such tour, make sure that you are ready for it all in all.

Here are some important bird watching tips that you should follow on your bird watching tour to make it a pleasant and adventurous expedition altogether:
 

1. Learn to make bird calls as this will help you in locating birds easily. While some of the bird species can be easily seen, there are many of them which you will not even get a glimpse of. Thus, to have maximum fun and to get best out of bird watching, develop basic mimicry skills as well as expertise in bird calls and singing. Your mimicry skills not just help you to get a great view but will also provide you an opportunity to get some great shots.

2. Buy yourself a good pair of binoculars as you will be requiring them quite frequently on your tour. You can get good bird views for some common bird species, but when it comes to species flocking around the area; the only way in which you can enjoy birding is using binoculars. Make sure that your binoculars have good magnification flair and excellent field of view.

3. Be a part of bird surveys before planning to go to one of the bird watching tours. This will help you to discover more about species being surveyed. Various bird surveys are organized by conservation bodies; you may even start your individual survey.

4. Get a Good Identification Guide (Naturist) and get the chance to enjoy birding in a right manner. These Naturists not just help you to get best view but also take you to the best spots that will help you get some great shots from your camera.

5. Walk quietly while on a bird watching tour. For this, you should prefer wearing trainers/sneakers rather than boots. Boots do provide protection, but are quite noisy.

Birding in India will let you explore diversified species of migratory birds, along with opportunity to be a distinctive part of nature. Being an enthusiastic bird watcher, you will get an experience that will definitely last for life. Do not forget to bring your camera and capture ultimate clicks of these mesmerizingly beautiful creatures.

Bird watching holidays in India- Are you a professional photographer who wants to get some great shots of birds or just a tourist looking for an adventurous birding experience? Discover the species by booking bird watching tours India at WildlifeToursIndia.co.uk.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6206320

Do You Need Birding Guides?

One of life's greatest pleasures for many people is to be at one with the natural world. Whether hiking, swimming in a lake, camping, or spotting animals in the wild, the enjoyment of being out in the fresh air is immeasurable as well as the health benefits.

Another way of getting out and about and enjoying nature is to go bird watching. It is a very inexpensive hobby and is something you can do on your own or with a group of friends. Bird watching is also a good way of bonding with family and makes a lovely outing for the weekend.
 

You don't need much equipment to go bird watching but you definitely need birding guides otherwise how will you recognise the birds you see, especially if you haven't seen them before? Bird watching field guides are usually regional so be sure to get the right one for your area. You can look on the internet to see what's available; Amazon is a great place to start as they carry nearly all the good titles available or you can browse your local book store but they probably won't have such a big selection.

Sibley's birding guides are very well thought of and range from books suitable for beginners to books for experienced bird watchers.

When you've chosen your bird book, look through it to familiarise yourself with the layout. Most of these books are laid out by species so if you aren't sure which birds belong to which species you may need to do some research before you actually go out birding. Regional birding guides may be laid out by area so obviously your own area is a good place to start and you should be able to find out what types of birds you can expect to see. This will make it easier to recognise the birds when you actually see them in the wild.

The best birding guides will have photographs and illustrations of the birds from different angles as well as identification techniques and information about habitat, migration and so on.

Once you've checked out the available birding guides, you will probably decide that you need a pair of binoculars or a telescope to help you see the markings and colouring of the birds more clearly. You can do without these but if a bird is quite different you won't be able to tell what it is without some form of magnification.

For more information on birding guides and articles on choosing binoculars and what you can expect to pay for them, visit Worldwide Bird Watching.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7384285

Birding Guides - Different Types of Birding Guide

Choosing which type of birdwatching guide you want or need is a challenge and fun too. First we consider what kinds of birding guides there are. Then compare them. Then evaluate our individual needs.
 

Types of Birding Guide include emphasis on and include in varying degrees:

    Photographs.
    Illustrations.
    Range Maps.
    Descriptive Narratives

The most unique birding guide is Pete Dunne's Essential Field Guide Companion. It has no pictures. It is designed as a companion to your birding field guide. Early explorers described their specimens with great clarity and relied upon their own field observations for details about habits and habitats the same way Dunne prepared this book. My list of types of birding guides now includes "Text Only". Most birding guides rely upon some variation of text and illustration or photographs.

Some are written for specific regions, or types of birds. Some focus on specific habitats. Others are written for beginners or for experts. Most depict the special identifying features of the birds and include maps to show their ranges. Some are waterproof now. Some identify birds primarily by sound. I just saw one on Kindle. So my list needs to expand and include different media.

Most birding guides follow the pattern set forth by Roger Tory Peterson in 1937 with his Eastern Birds by which every birding guide has been measured since then. More contemporary birding guides have been prepared by: Kaufmann, Sibley, Stokes, National Geographic Society, National Audubon Society, Golden Guides and of course updates of the entire Peterson series.

Donna Paul Bessken is an agent of change and a birdwatcher. She uses different bird binoculars as well as various birding guides in her free-lance work. During her life as a field naturalist and educator, she fell in love with bird-watching and caring for the environment.
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Quaker Parrot: Just What You Need To Know

If you want a bird who can talk, a Quaker parrot is the one you're looking for because parrot Quaker training is easy. It is a fast-learner, develops a bond with the owner and loves to be around people. Results would be better if just one member of the family would teach a parrot how to talk. Even so, you can hear the bird imitating the other members of the family as well.

 

Have you seen a Quaker parrot up close? It is a mid-sized engaging parrot, growing to around 1 foot in length. A Quaker parrots' top is bright green, its chest and face are colored white to grey, although as years have gone by and breeding has taken place, the colors have changed a little

The family's pet parrot

Two things can describe the this parrot: affectionate to its owners and very gentle. This makes it perfect for little family members. Larger parrots on the other hand might not be since they become aggressive when mad.

Color

Originally, these Quaker parrots were green and white but since the species evolved during the years, and due to breeding in captivity, there are a variety of color combination and different shades, too.

Toys

An active parrot likes to play around with toys, especially if he is home alone or when there is no family member available to play with him. A climbing gym, the ones with bells is a good example and will surely keep him amused for a very, very long time.

Would you consider keeping a Quaker parrot as a pet?

This kind of parrot would be a very good pet not just because it is affectionate and gentle but it adapts well to different environments. This is a very big advantage when keeping a pet bird but we all know that if there is a positive side, there must be a negative side.

Some states do not allow keeping the Quaker parrot as a pet. Because it can adapt well, these parrots that have often flown away have caused problems in the agri-industry and that's why they have been considered illegal. Sadly, if these are found anywhere in the states, they will be killed. Check laws first before considering buying a Quaker parrot, especially if you live in the southern areas of the United States.

If you do decide to keep a pet bird then you will find parrot Quaker training easy because of its intelligence.

For valuable information on how to decide on your parrot choice and how to best care for a pet parrot from parrot expert Kaye Dennan visit http://petparrotsecrets.com
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