The Camping Stool As a Tool For Bird Watching

Many bird watchers out there have their share of fancy equipment like binoculars, scope, bird guides, bird song players and a whole bunch of other gadgets. However, a lot of them forget about the fact that they are going to be walking around all day during their outings. There will be times when these walks are going to be long or strenuous. If you're traveling to other countries, sometimes when you go birding, you don't know what kind of facilities you're going to be dealing with. A camping stool is an underestimated tool for birding, when it actually can be an essential part of your gear.
 

For starters, a camping stool is just like a regular stool or small chair with no back. It's also lighter and can be folded and easily carried everywhere because it is made usually of nylon and aluminum. There are several shapes, forms, sizes and colors. The important thing to look for is that it's comfortable for you. When you're birding in the rugged outdoors, there is no guarantee that you will find a place to sit and watch birds. Imagine how handy it is to have your own chair with you always.

One of its advantages is that the weight is very light and easy to carry. It's small enough that you can tie it to your back pack or carry it on your shoulder, and in some cases you can even fold it inside a small practical carry case. It's very easy to handle and can weigh as little as two pounds.

When it comes to watching birds, this artifact is very useful under different circumstances. It is ideal for open areas like marshes, beaches, wetlands, watch towers and grasslands, where you can easily sit and have an open view. Another alternative is to sit next to a tree and lean on it to check out birds high in the canopy without straining your neck. So why stand when you can sit and enjoy the view?

Besides these benefits, the obvious uses are for many outdoor activities. These include camping, picnics, campfires, fishing, photography and others. It's indispensable now that being in the wild doesn't necessarily mean having to be uncomfortable. Something this simple can go a long way in making your life easier.

Many brands are in the market from outdoor products. Prices range from 5 to 50 dollars depending on the brand and whether it is made of aluminum, metal or wood. At the end of the day, your choice should be narrowed down to how comfortable the stool is for you, and how easy it is to carry. After all, its going to be yet another gadget you'll have to bring along for birding.

Considering how small and practical these things are, now it's easier to ponder having one with you on your bird watching travels. In time it can even become an indispensable item as a bird guide or binoculars. Now that you have with you a light, easy to carry portable place to sit, it's easy to see that the camping stool is a new tool for bird watching.

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Different Types of Birds According to Their Diets

A good understanding of the foods birds eat can help us to get them nearer to us. Birds help to add life to the trees in your backyard, put some natural sounds in your surroundings, and simply make you feel close to nature. Different types of birds eat different kinds of foods.
 

If you are able to discover what types of foods the birds are eating in your place, you might be able to use these foods to make them come nearer to your place. Here are the types of birds based on the food they eat:

Avivores

Avivorous birds are simply birds of prey; they eat other birds in order to live. These birds, which include hawks, falcons, and crows, are characterized by strong wings, legs and talons. They are agile fliers that pursue smaller birds and grab the smaller ones with their claws.

Carnivores

These are birds of prey. They love to eat meat, but they don't feed on other birds. The majority of their diets include rodents, small mammals, fish, snakes and frogs. Carnivorous birds include eagles, owls, falcons, and large hawks.

Frugivores

Frugivores are the typical fruit-eaters that we often see in the woods or near our farms. These sweetly-colored avian friends are our feathered planters. They work to spread the seeds of plants throughout the forest. These birds, which include orioles, robins, bananaquits, parrots, and blue jays love apples, berries, plums, raisins, bananas and other fruits. By the way, some bats eat fruits, but they are not birds; they are mammals.

Granivores

Granivores are birds that make grain as their primary food. Many birds belong to this category. They are the ones that are easy to attract in our backyards, if only we know what to lure them with. Examples of granivores include pigeons, sparrows, finches, parakeets, cardinals, and doves.

Insectivores

Insectivorous birds also depend on flesh for their diet, but this time, they prey on insects. Most insectivores are small, but these birds do a lot to help farmers and gardeners. They help to control the population of pests that destroy plants. These avian friends of ours include phoebes, bluebirds, warblers, woodpeckers, and chirping sparrows. Many birds that are not insectivores by nature hunt insects to feed their young.

It's just unfortunate that when farmers spray their plants with insecticides, they also destroy the birds that eat the dead insects. It's one of the main reasons why insect-eating birds are disappearing today.

Molluscivores

Molluscivores are shore birds that feed on snails, oysters and slugs. Many molluscivores converge at the seashore during low tide to hunt for clams and oysters. Other birds of this type prefer to stay in swamps to find their favorite food.

Nectivores

These birds feed on nectar from flowers. They help in the cross-pollination of flowers to make them develop and produce seeds. This is a symbiotic relationship that allows plants and birds to thrive together. Some of the most known nectivores include honeyeaters, hummingbirds, honeycreepers, sunbirds, and spiderhunters.

Ophiophagous Birds

Ophiophagous birds are feathered creatures that eat snakes. There are just a few bird species that include snakes as part of their main diet. These include the secretary bird, snake eagles, and some hawks and herons.

Palynivores

Palynivores are birds that eat pollen. There are not many birds which are strictly pollen-eaters. But a lot of insectivores and nectivores do consume pollen when foraging.

Piscivores

Piscivores are birds that dive or wade into the water to catch fish with their specialized beaks or strong claws. Some examples of piscivores include kingfishers, ospreys, seagulls, and cormorants.

These are the types of birds according to the food they eat. If you want to raise birds or attract them in your place, you should know their diet. Familiarize yourself with bird products at AussieVetProducts so that you will know what to give them to keep them healthy.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/8014530

Top Ten Bird Feather FAQ & Facts

We've all picked up, vacuumed and swept up millions of feathers. But what do we really know about feathers? This article lists some interesting facts and frequently asked questions about feathers.
 

What are feathers made of? Feathers are made of Keratin. This is a protein molecule manufactured by skin cells. The beak covering and the toe nails are also made of Keratin. Did you know that human fingernails and hair are also made of Keratin?

What are feathers used for?

•     Feathers provide insulation and maintain body heat. This is mostly a function of the down feathers.    

•     Feathers provide flight and mobility. This is primarily a function of the flight feathers (Primary, Secondary, and Tail feathers).    

•     Feathers provide safety by providing camouflage which helps the bird blend into it's surrounding.    

•     Feathers provide a means of communication. Flapping, Flying, Flaring tails and Fluffing are all forms of communicating to the flock.    

•     Feathers also provide a way of attracting mates. The beautiful plumage can be irresistible to some prospective mates.

What are the three major types of feathers?

•     Down - These are the fluffy feathers located beneath the contour feathers that help maintain the body temperature.

•     Contour - These feathers cover the contour (body) of the bird. They resemble Down feathers near the base (fluffy) and are stiffer toward the tips like Flight feathers. These feathers help to keep the wind and rain away from the bird's body while providing a more aerodynamic shape.

•     Flight - Made up of Primary, Secondary and Tail feathers, these feathers provide the lift for flight and stability. The Primary and Secondary feathers (Remiges) are connected to the major bones in the bird's wings and are asymmetrical similar to the wing or airfoil of an airplane. The Tail feathers (Retrices) are symmetrical and provide stability during flight similar to the rudder on an airplane.

What are the major groups of feathers? 

•     Primary Flight Feathers - These are the main feathers attached to the wing tips. There are usually eleven (11) but the quantity may vary with species. Six (6) are attached to the metacarpal part of the wing and the remaining extend along the Major Digit to the wing tip.

•     Secondary Flight Feathers - These flight feathers are attached to the Radius and Ulna bones. The quantity varies greatly from less than Ten (10) in some passerine species up to Forty (40) in larger species (albatross).

•     Primary Coverts - Contour feathers that cover the base of the Primary feathers.

•     Secondary Coverts - Coverts or contour feathers that cover the base of the Secondary feathers.

•     Median Wing Coverts - The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Primary Coverts and Secondary Coverts.

•     Minor Wing Coverts- The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Median Wing Coverts.

•     Marginal Wing Coverts- The next row of Coverts up (toward the body) from the Minor Wing Coverts.

•     Tail Feathers - (AKA Retrices) These are flight feathers located on the tail. Unlike the Primary and Secondary flight feathers, the tail feathers are often symmetrical and help to provide stability during flight.

•     Upper Tail Coverts - Contour feathers that cover the base of the Tail feathers (Retrices).

•     Ear Coverts - Contour feathers around the ear.

Where do all the pretty feather colors come from? There can be three types of pigments in a bird's feathers; Carotenoids, Melanins, and Turacoverdins. Carotenoids (Carotenes and the Xanthophylls) are the yellow to red pigments that impart the bright yellows, oranges, and reds to the feathers. Melanin (Eumelanin Melanin and Phaeomelanin Melanin) are the pigments that impart the brown, black or gray shades of colors.  Finally, the Turacoverdins are the pigments that produce various shades of green. But where does the blue color come from? The blue colors come from reflective interference. In combination with Melanin and Lutin, reflective interference also produces green and other shades. It is also what gives the feathers their iridescence. This coloration is produced by the same phenomenon that gives color to a film of oil on a water surface.

What is Preening? The preen gland is an oil secreting gland located at the base of the tail in most birds. As the bird grooms itself, the powderdown feathers break apart into powder. It is the combination of the oil from the preen gland and the powder from the powderdown feathers that creates and maintains a clean and well-groomed bird. Preening is also a means of socializing between birds. This social function also helps to get at those "hard to reach" areas. Preening is also the time for a bird to remove worn or damaged feathers during the molting season.

Are feathers dead or alive? Feathers are alive while they are developing. They have a blood supply during this time. After the feather's blood supply dries up, the Keratin sheath around it falls off or is removed by the bird revealing the feather. The feather is considered "dead' at this point because it possesses neither innervations nor a blood supply. Caution: During the development stage, serious damage can occur and the bird can bleed to death if a feather is broken during the development stage. It is also critical to avoid the blood line in the feathers when clipping a bird's wings.

What is Molting? A mature feather is not a living feather. So damage or wear on a feather cannot be repaired. Birds solve this problem by periodically replacing their feathers in a process called molting. Though this may be an ongoing process, it predominantly occurs once or twice a year for most birds usually in the spring or fall. It also occurs symmetrically. The same feathers on the right side will often molt at the same time as the left side. This helps to maintain the ability to fly in a balanced manner. Typically the fifth flight feather (both sides) falls out first and then flight feathers alternating on each side of the fifth flight feather will fall out in turn. This process will continue until all flight feathers have molted. The sequence typically takes weeks or longer to complete. As feathers fall out, new ones called pin feathers take their place. These are living feathers with a blood supply inside them. As the new pin feather matures, a thin sheath of keratin covering protects the pin feather. As the feather continues to mature, the blood supply will dry up and the keratin cover will fall off or be preened off to reveal a beautiful new feather.

What is Feather Plucking? According to the Pet Parrot Book there are three major causes; poor diet, lack of bathing opportunities and boredom. According to one source, feather picking ".. isn't a disease, but a symptom. This vexing problem could be cause by poor health or diet, or by stress or other psychological triggers."

What can I do if my bird is a feather plucker? This is a very complex question because feather plucking can be caused by a wide variety of things. So generally the first step is to determine the root cause of the plucking. Most experts recommend the following.

•     Take the bird to a veterinarian for a complete analysis. This should include a physical exam and laboratory tests. This will isolate the problem if it is a physical problem (diet, poisoning, illness, etc).

•     Carefully review your bird's environment for contaminants, air pollutants, smells, odors, or anything else than can contaminate your birds feathers. It is possible that the bird's feathers can be so contaminated that the bird literally wants to pull the feathers out. Just because that lovely scented candle smells good to you doesn't mean that the contamination to your bird's feathers smells good to your bird.

•     Carefully review your bird's surroundings for anything that has changed, been added, or removed at or around the time the problem plucking began which may be frightening to you bird. This can include toys, furniture, animals, kids, etc. A behavioral problem can cause plucking and it may not be obvious to you. Adding a chair to the room next to a bird's cage may be sufficient enough to frighten the bird and cause psychological damage sufficient to cause plucking.

The Author is the creator of the InfoSuperFlyway.com. It's a Web page dedicated to Kibibi a Congo African Grey Parrot with parrot recordings, funny parrot videos, top ten lists, parrot jokes, clicker training info and a large database of parrot articles.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2074589

7 Tips For Better Wild Bird Pictures

Capturing great bird stock photos can be challenging at times, but with good preparation, the right equipment and a few simple tips, it can also be quite fun and rewarding. What follows are our top tips for capturing better stock bird photos.

Know Your Venue

If you're hoping to capture some great wild bird pictures, the first thing you need to do is get to know your venue. First up, do some research and find out what species you're likely to spot. From there you can work out where and when you're likely to find them
 

If you can find a map of some description, convert that to a sketch map so you can mark your own details on it. Then when you first arrive, mark out the overhead path of the sun so you can anticipate lighting in different locations, mark in different vegetation/habitat types, and where you can find good cover for yourself.

Then as you spot different species, mark the locations (and times) in as well and you'll soon have a very handy reference guide for future shoots. When you return you'll know where you need to be and what time of day you need to be there, to capture the bird photographs you seek.

Most of the best bird photographers I know tell me they rarely get their best shots on the first visit... the best wild bird pictures usually happen once they know the location as well as their own backyard.

Know Your Subject

This should go without say for any sort of wildlife photography, but it's particularly important for capturing great bird photographs. Birds are incredibly fast and often seem totally unpredictable, so the better you get to know them, the better your chances of anticipating their behaviour and getting the shot you want.

For starters, invest in a good bird guide and learn everything you can about the species you want to photograph. Getting to know their feeding habits, breeding, nesting and migratory behaviours will help you make sure you are in the right place at the right time.

Knowledge of their specific behaviour, from guides and observation, will help you anticipate what they're going to do once you've found them. The more time you spend observing the birds, the better you'll be able to predict their behaviour, and it will give them more time to get used to you.

There are some behaviours that are fairly universal though, so you can start with these.

Most birds will take off and land into the wind, so if there's a prevailing wind direction at your venue, be aware of it and position yourself facing towards the birds likely location with the sun behind you... ie. so you get your photos with the bird flying towards you, lit from the front.

Most birds also 'tense' their feathers just before they take off. When they're relaxed (and going no where) they'll look more 'fluffy'. When they're about to take flight, they almost seem to shrink for a second or two before launching themselves. If you watch for this, it can be a great trigger to start shooting.

Buy the Longest Fastest Lens You Can Afford

This one comes with a caveat... you don't need an exorbitantly expensive lens to get marketable bird photos... but any extra length you can afford will help.

Some of the best bird photographers I know will use nothing more than a standard 100mm-400mm telephoto and they get incredible results. In fact most will tell you it's more about the preparation &research, good positioning and using patient stalking techniques.

So in a perfect world, all bird photographers would have a 600mm f4 auto focus lens, but realistically, anything over 300mm is probably good enough if you hone your other birding skills.

You can of course use a teleconvertor... a 1.4 teleconvertor on a 400mm lens will put you in the 600mm range, but be aware you will lose a couple of stops in the process. In open well lit settings that can be OK, but in any sort of vegetation it's probably going to make life difficult.

A final option a lot of dedicated birders use 'digiscoping'... attaching their camera to their spotting scope. A spotting scope with 25x magnification would be equivalent to a 1500mm lens, so even when you buy the adaptor as well, it can be a very affordable way of getting close to your subjects.

Camera Settings

In most cases, you'll want to use the fastest possible settings to deal with the speed and mobility of your subjects, and also with the long lens you'll be using. When the birds are flying, you'll usually need at least a 1/500 second shutter speed to keep it crisp. Even when they're perched, many birds are fidgets and rarely keep perfectly still.

There will be times when you want to slow it down and convey the motion and this can (should) be done deliberately. Just remember there's a difference between a photo deliberately captured to convey movement, and one that's just not sharp. If you're going for 'movement' my suggestion would be to use panning to make sure there's no question in the viewer's mind that it's deliberate!

Digital ISO settings allow you to speed things up considerably, just be aware of how fast you can go before the picture quality suffers.

Always remember to constantly check your exposures. White, bright skies will trick your camera's auto-exposure so for in flight shots you'll generally need to dial in 1-2 stops or more exposure compensation.

Other Equipment

Usually a tripod would be considered essential equipment when using a long lens, but often the situations you find yourself setting up in might make it difficult. By all means use one whenever you can, especially if you're working from a hide or semi-permanent position, but if you're on the move, I always find a monopod a lot more useful. In wooded areas there's usually a tree to brace myself on,

A lot of bird photographers will tell you their car makes a great hide and tripod all in one. Many birds are quite used to cars by now, so if you arrive on site and sit quietly for a few minutes, many birds will soon forget the car is there. Keep a small bean bag handy for a camera rest and your in business.

Always carry extra battery power and extra storage, and in the field a few plastic bags help for protecting your gear from the elements. If you're really roughing it, a lot of pros will suggest you don't even change lenses... if they really need a choice of lens, they'll carry it already attached to an extra camera body, just to avoid any chance of getting dirt or water inside.

Compositions

There are a few basic rules that apply to most wildlife photography, and they are particularly relevant to bird photographers as well.

    First and foremost, focus on the eyes.
    If the eyes are sharp, the rest doesn't matter.
    And if the eyes aren't sharp, the rest doesn't matter!

No doubt there will be exceptions, but if you keep that firmly in mind when you're shooting and also when your editing, you will end up with a much stronger collection.

Another 'rule' that applies to most wildlife photography is, shoot from the front. With few exceptions, there's rarely much call for the rear end view of any create leaving the scene.

The approaching view is much more natural, and generally your viewers will find it easier to connect with. With bird it's even more important as you usually find front on is the view they present to their mates, while the rear view is more likely to be plain or even camouflaged.

Finally, as much as possible, shoot from eye height.

For ground or shore birds, this often means getting down on your belly. For high nesting birds it means getting as high as you can yourself. Obviously you can't always get to their level, but the more you try, the better your results will be. Telephoto lenses do help give the impression you're more equal but don't rely on that alone.

If you're photographing birds in flight you need to anticipate and pan, and be extra careful not to crop too tightly. Much better to trim things later than find you repeatedly clipped off a tail or a wing. Always try to capture the birds flying into the frame, rather than out of it.

Always watch the wing position of the species you're photographing and also refer to your bird guide. Different species will present very distinct shapes, and the ability to capture those behaviours and traits that make a creature unique is what separates the great wildlife photographers.

Make sure you get good clear detail shots as well so you can be totally confident in your identification of the bird. That means close up shots of the head & beak, breast and back, as well as wing and tail shapes. (If you are planning to sell the images, ever, accurate identification is essential, so don't ever rely totally on common-names... buyers will usually want scientific names just to be totally sure).

Patience & Practice

When you arrive on site, always give the local inhabitants time to get used to you being there, you will get better images. Don't try to force the issue be going too close to fast... at best they'll just fly away, at worst they'll look visibly stressed... which never makes a good photo anyway.

Instead, wait and watch and work out what the comfort zone is for the species, and stay just outside that. Most birds are instinctively afraid of people, but if you sit and wait quietly, you'll also find most are quite inquisitive, and many will actually approach you if you give them the opportunity.

Beyond that, shoot often and shoot heaps. Don't expect your best shots on your first visit to an area, instead treat is as a scouting trip. Work out your lines of light, wind and where your cover is, and identify as many species as you can... that you can research more fully before your next outing.

If you're just starting out in bird photography,you might even find it useful to set up a feeder at your home, so you can practice and observe the birds in relatively closed environment. Remember, the more time you spend getting to know your subjects, the better your photos are going got be.

Finally, spend plenty of time studying other people's wild bird pictures. Dissect each shot and think about how it was created... in terms of equipment, settings, timing, positioning and the photographer's understanding of the bird and it's behaviour.

The great wild bird pictures don't happen by accident. In fact, quite often you'll find the best bird images aren't shot by bird photographers but by birders with photography skills. Something to keep in mind!

Matt Brading

Visit GlobalEye Images to view amazing wild bird pictures from our top bird photographers:
http://www.GlobalEyeImages.com/Photographers/PhotographsBirds.asp
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Capturing Birds in Flight

A shot of a bird in flight has always been a challenge to photographers. Seeing a perfect print image only serves to make them eager to create the same result. Photographing a bird in flight presents one problem, but capturing that one special bird-in-flight shot that's in focus and has good composition plus good light can represent a whole set of problems. Everyone has his share of good flight shots where the bird may be just a tiny bit soft. Those are easy. But, how do you get a great flight shot?
 

The camera technology of the last several years has made flight photography easier than it was before, but there are still lots of variables that need to be added to the equation to make good bird-in-flight photography a common part of your repertoire. Here are some fundamentals to help you increase your supply of flight shots:

Camera Body Features

The camera body equipment out today has made action photography much easier than it was when manual focus was the rule rather than the exception. The first handy feature to set is the continuous focus mode called AI Servo on Canon and Continuous Servo on Nikon. This setting allows the lens to keep changing the focus as long as the shutter button is depressed halfway and the subject is in the set auto focus point.

Second, Canon has a custom function that expands the auto focus point activation area to either 7 or 13 points. This is a great function, as it allows for the subject movement to remain in focus even if you don't keep up with the movement of the bird in your primary AF point.

Drive mode is the third camera function to set. Here, the best setting is "high-speed continuous" where you get the most frames per second that your camera body will allow. While you'll burn quite a few shots with this setting, it will allow more shots to choose from for the wing position and lighting you like best.

Lens Selection

Lens selection is a very subjective topic with plenty of correct answers. Being a Canon shooter, I'll refer to Canon lenses, but many other brands have some comparable lenses. If you want to do flight photography handholding your camera and lens, the best choices are the 400 f/5.6 and the 100-400 IS. These are, by far, the best lenses on the market for flight photography. (Canon shooters have the advantage here, as the comparable Nikon lens, the 80-400 VR, is very slow to focus. People in my workshops have wanted to throw their Nikon lenses as far as they could when they couldn't force them to focus fast enough.)

When handholding, try to keep your hand as far out on the barrel of the lens as possible to provide better balance while you're panning and moving around with the subject. Also, tuck your elbows into your body as far as you can and keep your legs about shoulder-width apart. This position helps you turn your body into a tripod.

Your skill level also plays a part in proper lens selection. When you're starting out in bird photography, it's best to use the above lenses as opposed to "big guns" such as the 400 f/2.8, 500 and 600mm lenses. The reason is that shorter focal length lenses will provide easier tracking of the birds in the viewfinder. With the larger lenses, you have a very limited viewing range when the birds are close. You have to get them in view when they're farther away and stay with them until they move close enough for you to take your shot. After time and practice, you'll find it easier to focus on them when they're close, but even then you'll miss some shots. Longer focal lengths also allow you to work at greater distances with less change in subject position. Birds going across the frame are easier to track, particularly with a long focal length, than those coming directly into the camera, since they stay at roughly the same distance.

If you plan to shoot from a tripod instead of wanting to hand hold the camera/lens combination, a big lens will definitely do the trick. If you're setting up a big lens on a tripod, by far the best option for a tripod head is the Wimberley head. The gimbal action is designed for action photography and makes panning with the birds easier than you could imagine if you've never used one of these heads. You can use a sturdy ball head, but you have to be careful with how loose you keep it. I primarily use my 400 f/2.8, sometimes with an extender, with the Wimberley head and then keep a second body close at hand with a 70-200 f/2.8 lens and either a 1.4 or 2X extender attached.

The faster the f-stop of the lens, the better, as quick shutter speeds are imperative in getting sharp flight shots. It's best to be able to stick with a f/2.8 lens but this isn't always an option, depending on how much money you can spend. F/4 and f/5.6 are about as slow as you want for getting quick action shots, whether the subject is birds-in-flight or any other fast-moving subject.

Advancing lens technology has made flight photography much easier, but not foolproof. Auto focus is the major development that has helped to capture action. Be aware that owning an AF lens is not a guarantee of sharp results. There is no substitute for good technique. However, auto focus does yield a higher percentage of acceptable images when you're shooting birds in flight, especially if you have a camera body that can shoot upwards of eight frames a second or more.

ISO

Because digital cameras keep improving the quality of images you get at higher ISO settings, it's now alright to push the setting to 200 or even 400 to get good flight shots, depending on the available light. The caution to keep in mind is that a shutter speed of at least 1/500 is needed--preferably even 1/1000 or more, if possible. Doing a little bit of testing with shutter speed and f-stop will help you determine what the ISO needs to be for you to obtain the desired shutter speed.

Lighting

As with any other subject, lighting is critical with flight photography. The best light condition for flight photography is front lighting, with the sun at your back and the birds coming towards you or across in front. The best light is still those two golden times of day when the sun is low on the horizon, but because the subject is high in the sky, you can extend your shooting time as the higher sun can still bounce nice light off the bird.

Composition

A key detail to keep in mind when you're composing flight shots is which auto focus point is set. You need to become adept at changing the auto focus point on the fly for you to get good flight shots. As multiple birds are flying around your location, you have to be aware of which point you've selected for the best composition.

The best compositions have space in front of the bird in the direction the bird is flying. Having its beak/ bill crowded against the leading edge of the shot makes for a potential throwaway image, even if everything else is right with the shot. Your subject needs room to breathe, and continually changing the AF point for better composition will provide the space you need to maintain in front of the bird.

Starting out, keep the AF point on the center point and try to get the bird's eye focused there. This will ensure there is room in front of the bird for it to fly into the frame. While the eye will be in the middle of the frame, the majority of the bird will be behind it, so you'll be keeping the full bird from being centered in the frame.

Technique

The farther away you can get the subject into your viewfinder, the better. If you try to focus only on a bird that's close to your position, you'll never get a good flight shot. As you see a bird coming in your direction, get it in the viewfinder, and track with it as it moves closer. Once it's in the position you like (the preferred frame size and in good light), you can fire away.

When you're panning a bird in flight, continue the panning motion even after you've taken the final shot. Following through will keep that last shot in focus better than if you abruptly stopped the movement. It's the same idea as a golfer doing a follow-through on her shot or a baseball player continuing with his swing. A good way to do this is to continue shooting after the bird has passed you by. The last couple shots will be throwaways, but you'll have included the shot you really want.

The eyes have it. As with any wildlife photo, you need to have the eye in sharp focus. If the eye is out-of-focus, then the shot is not of a technical quality suitable for publication. If possible, try to set your AF point on the eye. If you can't do this, at least get the focus on the neck, as the neck of a bird is on the same plane as the eye.

Location

The biggest factor to keep in mind when you're shooting flight photography is the relationship of the wind and the sun. Birds will always (well, almost always) take off and land into whatever wind or breeze there is. Getting the wind under their wings help them with lift and drag. Putting yourself in the right position to get the best flight shots means having both the wind and the sun at your back, allowing the birds to come towards you.

As you see, there are plenty of factors to keep in mind when you're taking flight shots of birds. You have to think about how much you want the bird to fill the frame, what the background is like, and the direction of the subject in relation to the sun. Since these variables change from picture to picture, you begin to understand that creating great flight shots requires more than just getting the subject sharp. You'll need to give yourself time and practice. In the meantime, you always have the delete button on both the camera and the computer.

My 600 f/4 sitting on a Wimberley head with my camera set to high-speed continuous and the sun and wind at my back will keep me happy for a good long time. I try to get caught up with what's in front of me, fly with it, and become part of the action. The next stop for me will be in front of my computer, looking at lots of shots of birds in flight and, hopefully, lots of keepers.

Andy Long is an award-winning photographer / writer who devotes his photography work to the beauty of the world around us. As a leader of workshops ( http://www.firstlighttours.com ) since 1994, Andy likes to help people explore new areas and to go home with a memorable experience as well as great images.

With more than 100,000 stock images, work has appeared in more than 30 publications and books as well as appearing in National Geographic and Animal Planet television shows. Besides these, Andy's work has also appeared in Birder's World, Outdoor Life, Audubon Regional Field Guides, regional AAA magazines, Montana Magazine, Outdoor and Nature Photography, Photo Media, National Cowboy Museum's Persimmon Hill, Ancient Images note cards, travel brochures, Sierra Photographers Focus and in ads for Rollei cameras. He is a previous winner of the national RoseWater Network Photographer of the Year award.
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Myths About Sexing African Greys

If you have an African Grey and don't know if it's a cock (male) or hen (female) then you've probably tried to figure it out using one of the following myths. These myths can be found all over the internet, forums and blogs. The myths are spread by owners, breeders and sometimes even vets! The truth is that there isn't a reliable visual (naked eye) way to tell if an African Grey is a cock or hen. African Greys are monomorphic which means they are visually difficult to determine the gender. The following myths about sexing African Grey's are the most common myths that continue to survive on the internet.
 

Myth #1 - Males are larger than the females.
Myth #2 - Males have darker wings than the females.
Myth #3 - Males have larger more powerful beaks than the females.
Myth #4 - Males have a round iris and females have an elliptical iris
Myth #5 - Males have light tips on their wing feathers and the females have solid colored wing feathers.
Myth #6 - Males have a flatter square head and females have a rounder head when viewed from the side (profile).
Myth #7 - Males have a pointed shaped bare skin area around eyes and the females have a rounded shape bare skin area.
Myth #8 - Males have solid dark gray feather color extending from chest to tail and female feathers fade to a lighter gray toward the tail.
Myth #9 - Males have solid red feathers around their vent (coverts under the tail) and female have a gray border of feathers around their vent (coverts under the tail).
Myth #10 - Males have two major color bands under their wings (light gray at wing forward edge and dark gray at the wing tips) and females have three major bands of color under the wings (light gray at wing forward edge, white in a middle band and dark gray at the wing tips).

Useful Terminology

DNA Sexing Procedure -The avian DNA test utilizes differences on the sex chromosomes of birds in order to determine their sex. Male and female birds give distinctive and different DNA patterns, resulting in conclusive and accurate sex identification. DNA sexing can be performed with blood, plucked feathers or eggshell samples.

Monomorphic - Birds can be described as monomorphic if their sex cannot be determined by their markings or the color of their feathers. The majority of parrot species are monomorphic.

Surgical Sexing Procedure - AKA Laparoscopy - a surgical procedure in which a tiny scope is inserted into the abdomen through a small incision enabling the veterinarian to do a visual inspection of the internal reproductive organs.

PCR - AKA polymerase chain reaction - a laboratory technique that can amplify the amount of DNA from a tiny sample to a large amount.

The Author is the creator of the InfoSuperFlyway.com. It's a webpage dedicated to Kibibi a Congo African Grey Parrot with parrot recordings, funny parrot videos, top ten lists, parrot jokes, clicker training info and a large database of parrot articles. For more articles about African Greys and other Parrots, this check out Kibibi's Parrot Article Archive.
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How to Create a Healthy Diet Plan for Your Pet Bird

Even though they have become quite common, birds are still considered to be exotic pets. This is the reason why many owners are not sure about the right way in which to feed them. Perhaps the biggest mistake is to offer only seeds as they do not offer the full spectrum of nutrients required by these lovely creatures. Find out how to feed your pet bird properly so that it is healthy and happy.
 

Food Diversity

Just like you, your pet requires a diverse and balanced diet. You can feed it some seeds, but they should form only a portion of its diet. The bird pallets are an excellent choice of food to give to your pet on a daily basis. They contain all the nutrients which birds require to be healthy. Just make sure that you pick a natural product which does not contain artificial additives, preservatives or colourings.

Your pet will certainly love to eat vegetables and fruits. They are excellent sources of carbs, fibre and vitamins and minerals. The vegetables and fruits which birds love the most include carrots, turnips, radishes, broccoli, corn, apples, bananas, berries, pineapple, cherries and mango. It is best if you feed your pet with fresh seasonal vegetables and fruits to achieve maximum diversity.

Other foods which you can include in the diet to make it diverse are raw almonds, kidney beans and lentils. These are great sources of healthy protein and healthy fat. Sprouted seeds, grains, nuts and legumes are great delicacies for birds in addition to being packed with nutrients. You can readily sprout dormant seeds and legumes at home by wrapping them a moist cotton ball and leaving them in a jar.

Feeding

Pet birds do not have set meal times, but it is best if you provide fresh food in the morning and in the evening. One important thing to know is that in nature these animals actually work for their food. They spend about a third of the day foraging. That is why you will do a great favour to your pet if you place a foraging feeder in the cage. That way, you will give it both physical and mental stimulation.

Cleanliness

You should never leave food in the cage for more than a day as it may get heavily contaminated with droppings or get spoiled. It is never wise to pour large amounts of feed and then forget about feeding your pet for weeks. You should also wash all feeders and dishes with warm water and detergent every day or every other day.

You now know how to feed your pet bird in the best possible way.

Keep your pet healthy and happy with Pet Supplies NZ. No matter whether you have a bird, dog, cat or any other four-legged family member, you will find the ideal food with ease.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/8497298